www.greenpowerscience.com This is the best off the shelf DIY STIRLING ENGINE start we have come up with so far. This Stirling Engine has shown signs of successful operation. It also works excellent as a Steam Engine. I have another compressor that I am converting into a DC motor:-) These compressors cost about 0 on EBAY. Make sure you buy the compressor pump at a 90 degree angle. This based on the Alpha Stirling Design that you can find here: en.wikipedia.org

This is the engine that was converted from an old special tilt piston air compressor. This is the exact same principal from a certain type of "Air Hogs" plane engine. In the opener the engine was running at 35-50 psi and the second start was around 75-80 psi. Top RPMS so far is 1700 at 110 PSI. The timing still needs some work. Solenoid Valves with a Reed Switch and a Magnet are great ways of testing air/steam engines to perfect the timing. A slide valve will eventually be needed as the solenoid valve is rated at 100000 – 1000000 cycles. This engine would wear it out in a day. The flywheel is wafer board (simple easy but not balanced or perfected). Not shown, top voltage from a permanent magnet motor (tread mill) 21 volts, top load 75 watts. The belt started slipping and the timing was hard to get back to perfect for the load. This engine will run 4 minutes on a full 10 gallon tank of air. The last minute is slow around 500 rpms to 50 rpms. A NEW DISCOVERY IN FREE ENERGY!! The LT Magnet motor get the blueprints at: lWWW.LT-MAGNET-MOTOR.COM

SOLAR POWER TRAINING COURSE This is a follow-up STIRLING CYCLE ENGINE video to the Compressor Conversion. The original design required too much heat on the displacer side due to excess volume inside the piston. By adding a large displacer, you reduce the working gas volume and dramatically increase the surface area to the heat source. The piston attached to the displacer is exposed to 80% less heat than the previous design preventing damage to the rings, also reducing wear and lubricant breakdown. The heat sinked cylinder on the hot side is also saved from heat damage. The

This is an update on the progress of the Stirling Engine created from a standard air compressor. This hot air engine should finally get some power. The piston rings were removed as the machining of the pistons was very good. There is still good compression. The ring removal decreases friction dramatically and will allow for a good cycle. The Displacer is a Bikini Spray can that I got to fit perfectly. At the end is the ghost of Robert Stirling. Just kidding, think I have been working too hard.

This is the engine that was converted from an old special tilt piston air compressor. This is the exact same principal from a certain type of “Air Hogs” plane engine. In the opener the engine was running at 35-50 psi and the second start was around 75-80 psi. Top RPMS so far is 1700 at 110 PSI. The timing still needs some work. Solenoid Valves with a Reed Switch and a Magnet are great ways of testing air/steam engines to perfect the timing. A slide valve will eventually be needed as the solenoid valve is rated at 100000 – 1000000 cycles. This engine would wear it out in a day. The flywheel is wafer board (simple easy but not balanced or perfected). Not shown, top voltage from a permanent magnet motor (tread mill) 21 volts, top load 75 watts. The belt started slipping and the timing was hard to get back to perfect for the load. This engine will run 4 minutes on a full 10 gallon tank of air. The last minute is slow around 500 rpms to 50 rpms.